Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower installation requires cautious preparation and a lot of work. For the most part, you will require to do 3 kinds of jobs: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must pick the kind of shower that you wish to install. It is very important to establish whether the chosen shower can dealing with particular systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. The majority of shower systems nowadays are developed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as saved hot water and cold mains).
It is likewise essential to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap according website to your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and incredibly basic to set up. However, although the hose pipe connection is simple, it is quickly removed. Furthermore, it is troublesome to change the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very inexpensive alternative and no extra pipes is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise suffer from inconvenient temperature control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously pointed out mixers. They likewise require additional plumbing of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. One of the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes hassle-free temperature control. However, it is the most costly of the different mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit including an effective electric pump that is capable of modifying both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is very important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature and pressure to be changed via a knob. Models with temperature level stabilisers are better as they remain untouched by other taps somewhere else in use within the home. A significant drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob just enables the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a higher pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is often weak and the mains water is colder. Nevertheless, this problem is taken on in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you want to set up, the shower head need to either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. In addition, the drainage system to get rid of the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise require to be considered if an immediate or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the guideline guide supplied with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipelines, they must be offered a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be supplying the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipes for any leaks, as some might need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have actually been made (there should be guidance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it should be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to maintain maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. In addition, by minimising the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water supply. You can achieve this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or overlooking local code restrictions.
# Using pipes that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.
# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not correctly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.